Day 2 - Torver to Elterwater (12.7miles)

After another hearty breakfast (which Poppy again helped me finish off – she was beginning to expect this on my return to the room), I set off from the Wilson Arms at about 9.15am on a glorious morning with a cloudless blue sky.  It was still a little chilly, but the forecast was for quite a warm day – not too warm, I hoped, for Poppy, who doesn’t cope well with the heat.

Torver churchyard

Torver Common Wood

I retraced my steps for about 1.5m back to Coniston Water, and then turned north towards the town itself.  It was very quiet and peaceful along the waterside path this time of the morning, and I didn’t pass a soul until I reached the outskirts of Coniston.  On the way I passed the curious looking Coniston Hall with its enormous chimneys, and spied Brantwood, the former home of artist John Ruskin, away on the other bank.

Boat landing stage on Coniston Water



The unusual chimneys of Coniston Hall (16th C)

In Coniston I bought a cold drink, and then briefly followed the wrong road through town.  Again, I realised my mistake within 50m or so, so no harm was done.  Back on track, I walked out of town &  took to the footpaths again by crossing Yewdale Beck opposite the school.  There were several other walkers on this part of the path and we exchanged greetings.

The Black Bull pub, Coniston

Leaving Coniston

I soon reached an incongruous Gothic folly, originally built as a hunt kennel by the Marshall family, who acquired the Monk Coniston Estate in 1835.  Beatrix Potter then acquired it 100 years later and passed it to the National Trust.  The route continued to rise behind the folly between gorse hedges to emerge into fields.  Descending again, the path soon converged with Yewdale Beck, and Poppy took the opportunity for a drink.  It was already getting quite warm and she was drinking from any puddle or streamlet she could find along the route, fortunately still quite abundant this early in the season.

Gothic hunt kennel on the Monk Coniston estate

Poppy takes a drink from Yewdale Beck

The CW left the beck to enter Tarn Hows Wood, where the path climbed to Tarn Hows Cottage.  A fairly stiff pull up a winding lane (fortunately empty due to a road closure) brought me to a National Trust car park, where I indulged in a luxury ice cream (raspberry ripple was my choice).  A few more yards, and I was rewarded with the lovely view over the manmade wonder of Tarn Hows itself. Pretty much totally man made, including the surrounding trees, it is nonetheless a gorgeous spot, particularly on a sunny day like today.  

Tarn Hows cottage

View north near the tarn

I had decided before setting out this morning that as the weather forecast was so good, I did not want to reach Elterwater too early, and as my walk was 2.5 miles less than the previous day, I planned to stop awhile by the tarn so Poppy could have a snooze and I could read a magazine.  When we arrived it was just after noon and although there were other people about, it was not exactly crowded.  I stopped for an hour, reading or just enjoying the view (and enjoying the fresh air on my un-booted feet), and by the time I was ready to leave it had got quite busy with picnickers.  Still, Tarn Hows IS one of the Lake District’s honey-pot tourist spots, and today was a lovely day during the school Easter break, so it was only to be expected.

Tarn Hows (this picture really does not do it justice)

The path to the west of the tarn

I took the path on the west of the tarn then joined a stony track to reach the A593 at Oxen Fell High Cross.  The route followed this road for about 500m, but fortunately the footpath was actually in the adjacent field.  I left the main road on a metalled track to High Park Farm.  It was an undulating lane, and was sheltered from any breeze.  Poppy really felt the heat on this section, and laid down in the shade cast by a stone wall.  Fortunately I always carry plenty of water for her, even when I expect there to be ground water available.

Crossing the A593 at High Oxen Fell

Nice view from the lane to High Park, possibly westish?

When we reached High Park Farm, I misread the walk instructions and effectively walked in a small circle round the farm house.  I was about to follow a CW marker up the lane, when I realised I was about to go back the way I had just come!  At this point, I met some other walkers who had just come from Elterwater, and seeing my puzzled looks, pointed me in the right direction across a field.

High Park Farm - scene of another slight navigation error

Entering a mixed plantation, I decided to take the ‘alternative’ route to see Colwith Force.  Although it had been quite dry recently there was still quite a bit of water flowing over the falls, and you could certainly hear it well before it came into view.  After rejoining the ‘official’ path by a lane, there was a short stiff climb, before a mile or so of easy walking between farms, with Great Langdale to my left.



Colwith Beck

Park Farm

Approaching Skelwith Bridge, the CW appeared to have been diverted from the map (and guidebook) route, probably to avoid having to walk on the main A-road.  However, it did mean I missed the village itself.  I was keen to see Skelwith Force waterfall, so I walked back along the road for 100m or so, following the noise, to find it.

Another nice fell view

Skelwith Force

The final part of my route today was a delightful flat walk initially alongside the River Brathay.  I knew I was nearing my destination, but was not keen for the day to finish, so I sat for half an hour on a bank, in the shade of trees, overlooking the river.  I then walked the final 1.5m through the woods surrounding the eastern end of shy Elterwater, and then along the flood damaged path alongside Great Langdale Beck.  The CW actually cuts through the fields adjacent to this path, but I was keen to allow Poppy a bit of off-lead time as I knew the path was securely fenced, and she had been on the flexi-lead all day following the ‘sheep incident’ on Day 1.

Looking back along the River Brathay

The Langdale Pikes across Elterwater

I arrived at the Britannia Inn in Elterwater village at about 5pm. There were loads of people sitting at the outside tables – quite unusual for mid April, I’m sure.  After a very welcome shower I joined the crowds outside for a meal, although it was getting a bit chilly by now.  I watched a little TV and then took Poppy for a last wee before retiring to bed about 10pm.  Again, I had a room overlooking the back of the pub, and there was a recurrence of the bottle bank incident of the night before, but I was not kept awake for long.

Brittania Inn, Elterwater - yes, it really was April!

What a glorious day it had been.